Ring of Kerry

27.08.2006 – Ring of Kerry - Iveragh Peninsula
Today we start to the probably most famous Ring in the southwest of Ireland Therefore we need a strengthening first The room includes breakfast and today we take it. Now what offers such an Irish breakfast?

The traditional Irish breakfast includes at least the following fried items: pork sausages, bacon rashers, egg(s), black pudding, halved mushrooms and white pudding, accompanied by tea or coffee and usually toast or traditional brown soda bread

Well, its not that bad, but the wild sausages (with flour?) and the ham may be found as well as toast and coffee. Added are potatoes (yummy) fried tomatoes (that’s a crime), baked beans and corn pancakes. Summarized edible but very heavy in the stomach, gulp.

Irish breakfast

So we start, deliberately clockwise, because the tour buses are supposed to drive counterclockwise. Lets see how many of them we meet today. The first stop comes soon, right on the way uphill at Ladies View, because even Queen Victoria, then Queen of almost everything (also Ireland) enjoyed the view on  Killarney National Park from here. According to the signs there are even Goblins around here and that’s reasonable because only a goblin can pass the road as quick as necessary. But the view in the valley and on the surrounding heights is worth the danger. As always there is a lot of green and in between rocks, a creek and a lake, very pictorial.

Ladies View Panorama
ein Kobold?
Chapel am Lady´s View
Vorsicht Kobold

All of this invites for a longer stay or for a hike, but we have a real way to go. Unfortunately there is mainly road to be seen on the way from Kenmare to Caherdaniel, and this road is tight and curvy and further very dangerous because of the many weirdos. Rarely the sea or bays are visible from the road, it only gets better approaching Caherdaniel . Here really nice bay and beaches are visible and who likes it can again visit prehistoric (or shortly after) fortresses and forts. The landscape is, even if green, very amazing anyway with the sharp break by the cliffs to the sea.

Fels und Meer
eine Kerrygold Kuh

Beside sheep we see also the famous butter producers. Eating this grass the butter must be very smooth. After Waterville we pass the first tour buses and follow subsequently the across the bus route or you pass the bus free route towards the Skelligs. And this is what we do and its worth it. Less traffic, even tighter roads however beautiful bays, dinky towns, fuchsia hedges and the ever unavoidable bio lawnmowers - Määähhhh


Kerry - Blick auf die Bay
Ladnschaft auf Iveragh

Otherwise again cliffs, rocks and turf simply nice. And also here Gaelic is the main language, but luckily there are only a few road alternatives. Sometimes the road leads up very steep At the to is then a viewpoint from which the Southern and the Northern half of the peninsula are visible. But the southern half only after I climb over a fence. This is no problem as long as one has no problems with sheep droppings. Bluff goes the way down to the village of Portmagee and Varentia Island. Direct behind the bridge to Varentia Island is the Skellig Experience Center where one gets a lot of information about the Skellig Islands. Visitors may actually not enter the Islands and ship tours around take long and are not so worthwhile.

Church am Ring of Skellig


einsames cottage eine der vielen Buchten

The Island Skellig Michael (from the Gaelic Sceilig Mhichíl – Michaels Rock), also known as Great Skellig accommodates one the the best known but also most difficult to enter monasteries of Ireland. It was built AD 588  on the steep and rocky Island located about 12 km from the main land of Kerrys . Skellig Michael is about 17 hectare in size, the highest point is with 289 Meters at the southern top. Almost on identical height is the small monk settlement, which can be reached over a 600 step stone stair, offering breathtaking views. On the rarely with green and herbs overgrown inclines from the time of the monks can, depending on the season also puffins be watched. Beside Great Skellig there is also the 7 hectare Island Little Skellig, located somewhat closer to the coast and with about 27.000 pairs one the world s largest colonies of Gannets. Both Islands are natural parks and may not be entered by tourists.

ein gälisches County
der Ring of Skellig
Blick auf Varentia Island
das Städtchen Portmagee

After a couple of photos of Portmagee we drive on further back on the peninsula. Along the way are more bay, old houses, hills overgrown with heather and so on.

The Ring of Kerry is a 170 km very beautiful panorama road along the coast, located in the county Kerry in the southwest of Ireland. Buses may only drive in one direction around the ring due to tightness of the roads (counterclockwise in National route 70) To avoid permanent evasion of oncoming buses it is recommend for individual tourists to follow the bus route. The N70 leads round the Iveragh-Peninsula either close to the coast or direct at the coast from Kenmare over Waterville to Killorglin; then inbound over Killarney and again to Kenmare.

So far so good, but at Kells whilst waiting at a tight bridge it happens when the car in front with trailer starts driving backwards.All honking is in vain, the trailer rumbles on our front bumper. Oh oh if the Kalos will endure this? The Lady of Asian origin understands little and so we drive to her home at Kells. However,  with her hubby and the 4 dogs we get quickly along, no visible damage and a call at the Gardia disperses our slight doubts, that there will be no problems at the return of the car.(finally it was so) Ugh - lot of luck and no exchange of car, searching an repair shop, stress. What else could happen now? Anyway no further bus, so that the number stays at 14, which is acceptable from our point of view. Perhaps it was a quiet day.

Nicole und die Varentia Island Bridge

Next village was Killorglin, where they worship a billy goat (Puck)  This was worth no stop as it already was close to dusk anyway. So we started again the well liked food search game. Today we browse the surrounding, but the prices really bother us. Italian Restaurant, Pizza 15 EUR and the purse holds tight. Seafood 35 Euro and we are still mean. Steakhouse 30 EUR and again we walk away. MC stupid is out of bounds, ow what shall we do. One Restaurant seems finally acceptable and so we enter the first floor for diner. No wine for diner, even if this is rather usual, I stick to my favorite Guinness and to eat: Cabbage and Bacon, potato as side as well as carrots and beet roots. Very delicious. Nicole has fish with potatoes (its not possible without!). Afterwards we return full and tired top our house pub (the left) because its not far to the room, The menu today reads: Guinness, Harp, Smithwicks -> Slainte!
KM: 216
Hotel Murphy´s Guesthouse

Ruine eines Herrenhauses
Skellig Ring Nord
erikabewachsener Hügel

now some cliffs?

Cliffs of Moher